The package might say ferret food but it does not mean it is good for our fuzzy friends. Some foods out on the market bring one word to mind ... ugh! So always, always, always check the label! Some companies change their food around a bit and might take away a necessary ingredient and replace it with a filler.

* Make sure the ferret always has food and fresh water everyday.

Stay away from high-sugar and high-salt foods, caffeine, dairy products, nuts, and chocolate. Keep in mind some ferrets will become lactose intolerant after he or she has too many dairy products, so keep the ferret away from them altogether. Some handle it better than others, though.

As long as the ferret is eating a high-quality ferret or kitten food, vitamin supplements are usually not needed. However, some ferrets like the taste of them and it can be used to help with trimming nails and training the ferret. Ferretone, NutriCal, Ferretive, Nutri-Stat, and Rex Brand 100% Wheat Germ Oil can be given as long as you do not over-do it. There are also other brands, as well. Be careful with the Ferretone, though. It is very high in vitamin A. Diluting the Ferretone is always a good idea so the ferret does not ingest a lot of it. You can either add water or add olive oil.

Ferrets should have a minimum of 3 hours each day to run around and play. "Carpet Sharks", as they are sometimes nicknamed, are very active animals and need a lot of run time and exercise.

Ferrets who live in a cage 24/7 or hardly ever come out to run will develop stiff joints and muscles and could possibly become neurotic. Ferrets should not be kept as caged animals.  (I only recommend keeping them in a spacious cage when you cannot give the ferret your full attention or you are not home). They are active animals and love to play.

The more time you spend with your ferret, the more you will notice that they have their own unique personality. Ferrets are extremely social animals and require a lot of attention. They could become depressed if they are not handled by anyone, especially if they do not have another ferret friend with them. Some ferrets love to play with humans rather than ferrets.

Make sure any toys your ferret plays with is made from a hard plastic or hard rubber. Ferrets love rubber and if it is digested it could lead to an intestinal blockage. A vet visit needs to be made as soon as possible if the ferret does digest anything.

Ferrets love toys. Here are some of their favorites:
- Tunnels and tubes ~ PVC piping, dryer vent hoses, or tubes and tunnels made specifically for ferrets.
- Hard plastic balls ~ especially the ones with bells securely inside.
- Hard rubber balls.
- Hard plastic infant (human) toys.
- Plastic Easter eggs with things that make noise inside. Be sure to tape the egg securely.
**No matter how much your ferret loves plastic bags, never allow the ferret to play with them. Ferrets can suffocate as can a human.

Ferret-proofing is extremely important. Basically, you want to block off anything you would for a human toddler. Well, even more with ferrets.
– Windows ~ Ferrets jump, climb, and scratch very well. Make sure there is nothing the ferret can jump on to get out of an open or screened window.
– Sofas/Recliners ~ If the ferret goes underneath the cushion, he or she could suffocate and/or be sat on. They are simply unsafe with ferrets around. Fact: Recliner accidents are a leading cause of death for ferrets.
– Desks/Tables/Counter Tops ~ Like I said earlier, ferrets love to climb and do it well. If they climb on a high surface, like a desk or table, they might jump off and could break their neck and/or legs.
– Wastebaskets/Trash Cans/Trash Bags ~ Be sure these are in no way near the ferret’s play area. The ferret could get into the wastebasket or trash bag and eat its contents along with the bag itself.
– Wire ~ Some ferrets will chew on wire. You can spray the wire with Bitter Apple or simply (and I prefer this way) keep it out of reach. Be careful with Bitter Apple, though. Some ferrets like it and some tolerate it. Be sure to always keep an eye on them!
– Electric Sockets ~ Some ferrets might put their paws in the sockets. Be sure to cover them up with child caps.
– Fireplaces ~ Fire or not, block them off!
– House Plants ~ Most plants and potting soil is poisonous to ferrets and other animals. Be sure there are no house plants in reach of the ferret.
– Doors ~ Be careful when opening and closing doors.
– Anything rubber ~ Ferrets love rubber and will eat it causing an intestinal blockage which could be fatal.
– Refrigerator/Stoves ~ Block off all sides. This is a very dangerous place if a ferret gets under there. Plus, who knows what is down there! Also, be careful when opening and closing them. The ferret might jump right on in without you knowing.
– Cabinet Doors/Drawers ~ Ferrets can, and most will, open cabinet doors and go in. Some of these cabinets have cleaning supplies in them which are poisonous to ferrets, others have rubber containers which they will chew on, and others have plumbing which the ferret could get into. Always block off cabinet doors and drawers. Child-proof locks do not do any good. They leave just enough room for the ferret to get through.
– Dishwashers ~ Just like stoves and refrigerators, block off all sides. Be careful when putting the dishes in the dishwasher. Be sure the ferret does not sneak in when you are finished loading it.
– Toilets ~ Always keep the toilet seat down! The ferret could climb in and drown.
– Laundry Room ~ Make sure the laundry room is not of any access to the ferret ... period!
– Soaps, Shampoos, etc. ~ Make sure there are no soaps, shampoos, or anything else of that nature laying around in your bathroom. Although there have not been any studies proving they are toxic or fatal to ferrets, it will cause diarrhea and an upset stomach.
– Anything else laying around ~ Just remember ferrets will eat / chew and scratch anything . Keep this in mind while ferret-proofing.

** No house or room is 100% ferret-proof unless there is nothing in there except safe toys. The house / room is not even 100% ferret-proof if there is nothing but toys and carpet. Some ferrets dig up, and some even chew, on carpet. This is why supervision is extremely important. >> Helpful tip ~ Ferrets can get into the tiniest places. As long as their tiny head will fit (not including fur) they will get through. The hole might look too small but in most cases the ferret will prove you wrong.

When you are not home or too busy to keep a close eye on the ferret, I recommend keeping the ferret in a spacious wire cage … never, ever, ever allow your ferret live in an aquarium because of the poor ventilation. For two ferrets a 2-3 tier cage should be sufficient. The cage should have a lot of bedding like hammocks (ferrets love hammocks), T-shirts, sleep sacks, cloth tunnels, etc. Food and water need to be available at all times. An attached litter pan(s) is highly recommended (see ‘Litter’ section). Be sure to place either carpet squares or linoleum (I prefer linoleum because it is much easier to clean) on the cage floor. Wire mesh could hurt the ferret’s feet after a while. To secure it, use small binder clips and take off the silver pieces. As a food dish, either use an attachable bowl or a heavily weighted bowl. The ferret should have a 16 oz. (or larger) water bottle attached to his or her cage at all times.

Ferrets should have as much natural light as possible. Some say too much unnatural light could be one of the possible causes of adrenal tumors … BUT … this has not yet been proven. Having light (night light, turning on a lamp, etc.) in the room during the night time is not necessary. During the day they should be around as much natural light as possible so turning them on at this time is unnecessary, as well.

Ferrets love cool environments. In a warm environment they could get irritated skin, a dry coat, and dehydrate easily. Ferrets are more happy in a cooler temperatures. 70 degrees Fahrenheit should be fine … never allow the house or room to get above 78 degrees Fahrenheit.

Ferrets cannot tolerate temperatures above 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures above 80 degrees Fahrenheit could lead to heatstroke. Heatstroke can be fatal if not treated properly and quickly. Signs of heatstroke are: heavy panting / breathing, lethargy, loss of consciousness, limpness, seizures, and mucous coming from the ferret’s mouth and nose. To treat heatstroke, gradually decrease the ferret’s body temperature. Never use cold water.  This may put the ferret into shock and possibly result in death.  This is what you can do until you get the ferret to the vet:
** Get the ferret in a cooler area and give the ferret water and/or Pedialyte or Gatorade.
** Sprinkle and gently wipe down the ferret with cool water (not cold but not hot). Do not forget the pads of their paws! Putting water on their paws will help a lot. You could also place the ferret in room-temperature water (shallow). Be sure you do not place the ferret in cold water.  
** Be sure to take the ferret to the vet as soon as possible!!

** To check and see if the ferret is dehydrated, use the ‘scruff’, or sometimes called, ‘tent’ test. Scruff the ferret by grasping the skin by the ferret’s neck and shoulder blades and then release. If the skin does not spring back quickly into place, this can be a sure sign of dehydration.